2012 秋冬紐約時裝週。Emily’s pick of New York Fashion Week Fall 2012 RTW

J. Mendel

Lacoste

Thakoon

Helmut Lang

Altuzarra

3.1 Phillip Lim

Derek Lam

Richard Chai

Sachin + babi

Carlos Miele

All photos above are from New York Magazine

春天明明還沒來，紐約的秋冬時裝週就結束了（汗）。今年許多不同的設計師都強調了視覺衝突的色塊搭配、飄逸的百褶裙、誇大尺寸 帶有詼諧和街頭風格的外套、融合東方或民族風格的剪裁和圖騰。我特別喜歡紅色和閃亮粉紅的搭配（光想眼睛就瞎了，聽起來很驚悚但是搭配起來很好看）。

今年 J. Mendal 的系列除了設計師 Gilles Mendal 經典的合身皮草和奢華感，也加入了許多現代女性優雅和俐落的元素，比起春夏的設計，這一季混合雪紡、羊毛織品、皮革和毛草等不同材質的設計和合身的剪裁更令人驚艷。

Lacoste 融合視覺衝突的色塊搭配和街頭風格，以滑雪衣為靈感的洋裝和連身套裝充滿都會感，運動風又有健康和瘦身的偽視覺效果（一定要等到今年秋天才能買嗎！？）

愛美麗2012年紐約秋冬時裝週精選輯完整版

A quick wrap up of New York Fashion Week Fall 2012 and some of my favorite pieces. This year we saw a lot of color blocking, floral patterns, flattering pleated skirts, and retro elements. I really like the combination of red and bright magenta (yes it might make someone blind, but actually work out amazingly). There are also a few young but influential of designers, like Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen, incorporating Asian traditional designs and patterns into their collections.

J. Mendal’s collection is probably one of my favorites. I love the mixing texture and tailored leather and cashmere. The impeccable styling and structure of the cloths make this collection more modern and relevant to a greater audience. The evening gowns are chic, elegant, strong but not overly sexy.

I also love Lacoste’s ski suit inspired dresses and jump suits. It is so brilliant to mix sportswear and color blocking with preppy-chic urban styles. Apart from being stylish, they also make you look athletic and thin, bonus!

My full selection of New York Fashion Week Fall 2012 on pinterest

Tied Up in a Dream – Aoi Kotsuhiroi

Aoi Kotsuhiroi is a French-based designer and artist. I recently discovered her latest collection “Exotic Regrets” and was immediately hooked by the beauty and transcendence of her work.

The shoes are made by horns, wood, animal hair and leather. On her website, she puts words from Nobuyoshi Araki, a well-known Japanese photographer and contemporary artist.

“”I only tie up a woman’s body because I know I cannot tie up her heart. Only her physical parts can be tied up. Tying up a woman becomes an embrace.”

-Nobuyoshi Araki

Aoi Kotsuhiroi 是一位居法國的設計師，我對她的作品深深著迷，尤其是最新的系列Exotic Regrets。她的作品有種陰沈而奇異的美感。

這雙鞋是由獸角、木頭、動物毛髮和皮革所製。Aoi Kotsuhiroi 引用日本當代攝影和前衛藝術的大師 Nobuyoshi Araki（荒木經惟）的一句話。

「女人的心是無法被束縛的，我只能綁住她的身體。只有她的身體能被束縛，對我而言就像是給她一個緊緊的擁抱。」

- 荒木經惟

Farewell, McQueen.

I finally managed to visit Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, the exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.

It was a sunny, bright morning, when I was steeped in McQueen’s dark fantasy. Andrew Bolton, the curator of the exhibition, creates an amazing world where visitors can see and feel McQueen’s vision and his inspiration. McQueen’s works are full of imagination and energy, with different materials and rich references from history and cultures.

這個月每個星期都去紐約出差（火車坐到想吐），總算偷到兩個小時的空檔，為的就是大都會博物館為去年逝世設計師所辦的特展 – Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty。

是久違的太陽終於露臉，好不容易揮別連日的綿綿細雨，但是我的心情卻隨著參觀的腳步越來越沈重。我在人群中緩慢的前進，走進McQueen的世界。他源源不絕的想像力給了作品生命，融入他對歷史和文化詮釋，每件創作都代表著不同的故事。

“When you see a woman wearing McQueen, there’s a certain hardness to the clothes that makes her look powerful. It kind of fends people off.”

Maybe the toughness is coming from the whisper of death that blended in all his characters.

“McQueen的服裝賦予女性一股強烈的氣質，使她充滿權力的氣勢，甚至讓人感到畏懼。”

我想也許這個令人畏懼的感覺，是因為McQeen的設計總是離不開他對死亡的遐想。

But somehow my heart sank while walking through the galleries. McQueen’s design possesses strong emotional power that channels the deepest and maybe darkest human desires: sexuality, violence, pain, life and death. In the end, I suddenly realized that he had forever left us.

The exhibition is absolutely breathtaking. McQueen’s talent established his name in fashion, but his creativity and aestheticism are beyond and above. GO and visit by July 17 and try to be there early if you can!

我從沒想過看完這個期待已久的展覽，會讓心情無比的沈重。 McQueen的設計備受矚目的原因，除了戲劇化的張力，也在於其擅於挑起人心最深處而黑暗的慾望：性、暴力、痛處、生命和死亡。

在走出展覽的那一刻，陽光壓得我喘不過氣，我才驚覺當我們回到現實的瞬間，他已經離開這個世界。

McQueen在當代藝術的影響力，已經遠遠超過時尚。這個展覽將展到7月17日，有機會到紐約一定要去（早上九點半就開了建議大家在網路上買好票，我11點出來就大排長龍！）

Kate Moss Hologram – Fall/Winter 2006

Long Live the Brand

Pierre Cardin is up for sale. The 88 year old designer is looking for € 1 billion. He told the WSJ: “I know I won’t be here in a few years and the business needs to continue.”

If the business survives through a very challenging environment, it is still questionable how the brand can continue. The brand is diluted and overstretched so much that it has long lost its identity. I remember buying a Pierre Cardin wallet as a father’s day gift long ago. In Asia, it’s one of the brands for men’s accessories, belts, wallets and suitcases. We knew it’s a western brand, and that’s about it.

Down The Rabbit Hole

“The rabbit-hole went straight on like a tunnel for some way, and then dipped suddenly down, so suddenly that Alice had not a moment to think about stopping herself before she found herself falling down a very deep well.”

The Night Before Christmas

今年的第一場風雪緊接著聖誕節而來，Boston 也算是迎接了一個遲來的白色聖誕節。